Coming in from the slopes rosy-cheeked and hungry, wouldn’t it be nice if you thought ahead and had this hearty dinner ready for warm-up in the oven? Fennel seed adds a bright sassy note to this age-old favorite.
My mother spends the summer in a small cabin on Wolf Lake, in the Catskill Mountains. Though only two hours from New York City, it is truly “peace on earth”… that is until company arrives.
And company comes all summer long. My brothers and I, with families in tow, make an annual sojourn back to the lake. We eat too much, drink too much, and laugh enough to make up for lost time together. We revisit old memories and make new ones. Those who live close by, visit weekly. I call my mother and hear the new stories. Stories that I am not a part of.
Last weekend, my brother Jim and his family were at the lake and my mother served steaks with our Tarra·Cardamom Rub (her favorite). I was touched that my nephew Corey liked the rub so much that he ordered some as a gift. It made me feel like I was a part of the gathering, even though I wasn’t there. Half-way across the country, I felt connected.
Serves 2
Ingredients:
Directions:
Elegant and deceptively easy. The savory spice rub perfectly complements the muted sweetness of the wine/apricot sauce. Tastes even better the next day, so make a generous amount.
Ingredients:
I never measure. That’s why I like Jamie Oliver – a dash of this and a shake of that. Also his accent is adorable. This combination of ingredients always works, no matter the proportions.
In your food processor, whip up:
Looks pretty over little curly fusilli noodles, or keep on hand to brighten up sandwiches.
We grill chicken more than once a week and I’m often looking for ways to change it up a bit. I love our new Ginger·Mustard Rub. It’s easy to use, and tastes like you spent the afternoon in the kitchen. In a pinch, you can add the spice blend to your chicken and let it sit for 20 minutes before cooking. (Although, I like to marinate it overnight so that the flavors infuse the chicken!)
Serves 2
Ingredients:
The beauty of this dish is that once you prepare it, your entire dinner is done. Vegetables (broccoli and mushrooms), protein (chicken), calcium (cottage cheese, milk and swiss cheese) and carbs (noodles). Throw it in the oven, pour yourself a glass of chilled Chardonnay, and relax!
This recipe is from The Soup Bible, by Debra Mayhew, which is one of the best soup cookbooks I’ve found. There are three recipes in this cookbook which are outstanding. The other two are Thai Chicken and Noodle Soup and Seafood and Sausage Gumbo.
The parsnips and lemon give this soup a slight twist on the traditional chicken soup. Whenever anyone gets a cold, I make them this soup. (more…)
Seizing on a chicken thigh sale, I marinated a couple packs and grilled them the next day. Big hit! Before leaving for a Memorial Day Weekend trip three days later, I grabbed the last two thighs from the refrigerator and threw them in the cooler. When the kids demanded a Taco Bell stop, I pulled out the chicken for myself. Still moist, still infused with that great gingery zing. Sure beats Taco Bell! The measurements are approximate; I just threw them quickly into a ziplock. Just make sure there’s enough liquid to cover all the chicken. The key ingredient is the Ginger·Mustard Spice Rub.
Ingredients
This recipe is great for entertaining, since you can make it ahead and throw it in the oven while you are getting ready. It is equally good with rice or a baked potato. The recipe is modified from a recipe in the Barnes and Noble, “Chicken -over 400 fabulous recipes for all occasions”.
Briney olives, dry white wine and the complex nuances of our Ginger·Mustard Poultry Rub converge for an explosion of tastes. Serve with Chco e Pepe (thin spaghetti with pecoroni and parsley) to soak up the extra sauce.
Ingredients
The bright green from the arugula and the red from the tomatoes create a lovely palate. Fennel adds a note of licorice-like perfume to the broth. Serve with crusty baguettes and butter for an easy and elegant meal.
Pairing Suggestion: A dry white Riesling complements the spice from the red pepper. We enjoyed it with a 2006 Snow White Riesling from Snow Farm Vineyards. Or, a very lightly oaked chardonnay works nicely with the butter in the broth and bread.
When I lived in Chicago, I became addicted to ribs. I never realized how good they were until I tried the ribs at Twin Anchors, a bar on Sedgwick just north of North Ave. The meat is so tender, it just falls off the bone. Now, whenever I return, I always plan enought time for a nostalgic trip to my old favorite haunt.
4-6servings
Ingredients
I usually make this in the fall and winter, but the past few days have been so cold, I broke out the soup pot and made a double batch of Curried Lentil and Sweet Potato Soup. The roasted sweet potato slightly sweetens the bite of the curry and the two flavors meld together to create a complex and tasty soup.
6-8 servings
Ingredients
Directions
I like turkey, but with just two of us, roasting a whole turkey is a little excessive. Instead, I buy the turkey breast tenders at whole foods and roast them. They are a little less than a pound a piece, so one is perfect for the two of us.
In this recipe, the sweetness of the grapes and the nutty flavor of pecans are perfect complements to the heat of the curry and cayenne.
This was fun to make and serve on Halloween night, but it would also make for a festive fall or holiday appetizer. The oozing cheese and cream make for a very rich dish, so a crisp green salad complements it perfectly. I served it with Insalada del Campo, a perennial favorite at Delfina Restaurant in San Francisco. Delfina’s owner and chef Craig Stoll generously shared it in the San Francisco Chronicle. The pumpkin recipe is from my most recent issue of Gourmet. Here it is.
The early evening breeze tempers the heat from the afternoon sun. The light shifts from bright to golden, and the mountainside glows greener than I ever remember—a reward for enduring all those days of pounding rain.
This spectacular mountain-scape serves as a backdrop for Pascal and Reese, our chefs for the evening – here to share their grilling secrets. Everything Pascal says is charming. His French accent and animated style entertain the eclectic group gathered on the patio. Reese, the notable Chef de Cuisine, plays a perfect straight man to Pascal’s humor. Reese raises an eyebrow to one of Pascal’s comments and the guests respond with a giggle.
While we listen raptly to Pascal describe how to repair a “broken” Bernaise sauce, a local wine distributor circles among us pouring tasting glasses of excellent pairings for the trout and halibut that Reese is preparing. [I failed to get the names of the wines, but I will update you as soon as I find out what they were]. As the glasses are filled and refilled we become more animated, begin chatting with one another and asking about seasonings and grilling techniques.
I am here to present our freshly ground organic spices and to learn how Pascal and Reese use them to create their marvelous meals. We have a small gift of spices for each of the guests and they respond enthusiastically; pleased to know they can order them on line; amazed at the vibrancy of their flavors and aromas.
In one short class, we grilled halibut and prepared trout en papillote, Bernaise sauce, beurre blanc sauce, gribiche sauce, and my favorite, watermelon salsa. What a charming and educational evening.
Good news, there are more classes to come. Pascal and Reese are hosting three more grilling nights throughout the summer. So, if you are in Beaver Creek on July 25th, August 8th, or August 22nd, stop by the 8100 Mountainside Bar and Grill in the Park Hyatt and enjoy the fruits of Pascal’s and Reese’s labor. The demonstration starts at 4:30. Be sure to come early to grab a seat under an umbrella near the grill. Sample their delectable morsels and sip expertly chosen wine pairings, while picking up great culinary tips in an idyllic setting.
Sage and rosemary are a savory addition to the crust, and water chestnuts lend a satisfying crunch to this healthy version of a winter classic. Crust is used on top only so it doesn’t overwhelm the delicate filling.
Ingredients:
Pie Crust
Use recipe for Florence Ueberroth’s Famous Pie Crust, adding
Roll out crust thinly between two sheets of waxed paper. Set aside until filling is done.
Filling
Instructions:
Bake at 350 degrees for about 45 minutes, or until crust is golden-brown.
This weekend I handed my husband Mitch a copy of the Creamy Ricotta recipe by Maria Helm Sinksey on page 126 of Food & Wine (November 2008). He likes challenges like crafting beer and cheese, and found that it was easy and fun to make ricotta. He swore he would never buy ricotta again. It tastes nothing like the commercial version. Fluffy, sweet and scrumptious, it is well worth the effort. In case you don’t have this issue of Food & Wine, here’s what he did. Try it!
We spent Labor Day Weekend with my in-laws in Anderson, California. It’s real country up there, with goats and chickens and llamas roaming in yards and fields. My mother-in-law Cleo buys her vegetables from neighbors, and sends us back to San Francisco with the best bounty of the season. This time we returned with those little purple Japanese eggplants, tomatoes and fragrant basil from her own garden. During the visit, in between making root beer floats and chocolate haystack cookies for our demanding children, she somehow managed to whip up this delicious/nutritious eggplant casserole. It’s reminiscent of eggplant parmesan but without all the oil and frying and mess. I made it as soon as I returned, with my nice vegetables from the friendly farmers. I won’t pretend that I measured anything, but these are the ingredients. (more…)
This recipe is from Bon Appetit. I made it one Thanksgiving for all my orphaned friends in Boulder. I found the gravy a little sweet, so cut back on the pear nectar. The food was almost as good as the company.
Love having this on ccccold Sunday afternoons,
as we watch the Pats… win!
Ingredients
Directions
Some historians speculate that the pomegranate, rather than the apple, was the source of all that drama in the Garden of Eden. In this heart-healthy recipe, the tension between the assertive spices and the sweet fruity glaze creates a drama all its own. Good for the heart, speaking both anatomically and metaphysically!
Ingredients
Vivid green and red make this a colorful side dish for holiday dinner. The confluence of smoky bacon, velvety feta and sweet currants play perfectly against the bitter greens.
Ingredients:
I know chicken breasts are simple and easy. But, roasting a whole chicken is definitely worth the extra effort. The roasted bird has a better texture, is more tender, and definately tastes better… and its cheaper! I made this last week for friends who were passing through Denver. The four of us devoured the whole bird. The only thing left was the bones, which I put in a bag in freezer. Next rainy day, I’ll make stock.
Ingredients
Our special Lemon·Anise Rub transforms the lowly can of salmon into delightful delicacies. Top with homemade tartar sauce.
Ingredients:
FOR SALMON CROQUETTES
This rub is custom blended for the Chef de Cuisine at the 8100 Mountainside Grill in the Park Hyatt in Beaver Creek. The restaurant sits at the base of Beaver Creek and the bar has a fabulous view of the ski mountain. They grill the salmon on a wood fired grill and it tastes absolutely fabulous.
Ingredients
This recipe is from The Soup Bible, by Debra Mayhew, which is one of the best soup cookbooks I’ve found. There are three recipes in this cookbook which are outstanding. The other two are Thai Chicken and Noodle Soup and Chicken Soup with Vermicelli.
My nephew Craig and I used to make this gumbo – there is a lot of chopping and stirring, so its definitely a two cook recipe. It takes a while for the roux, so open a good bottle of wine before you start. It makes a lot – 10-12 servings. Since it tastes even better the next day, I aways make the full recipe. Leftovers freeze well.
(adapted from Frank Crispo’s Spaghetti Carbonara as printed in Esquire)
Frank Crispo shows three strokes of creative genius in his take on the traditional dish. First, instead of using only bacon, he ups the complexity with a trio of pork meats. Second, the addition of frisée lightens the heaviness and adds a subtle green freshness. Third, rather than scrambling the egg in the process, he poaches an egg on the side and tops the pasta with white clouds of poached egg and a twist of the pepper mill at the last minute, resulting in a gorgeously aesthetic presentation and avoiding that gloppy texture of traditionally prepared carbonara. I’ve tinkered with it over the past year to suit my family’s tastes, adding red pepper flakes for spice (although some of my kids still add Tabasco to it) and pasta water for extra smoothness. This is the best version I’ve come up with. So far…. (more…)
Note: The original recipe includes broccoli, snow peas and plum tomatoes. I leave out the broccoli and snow peas, and use cherry tomatoes. I also increase the vodka and use a couple teaspoons of red pepper flakes, as most of my family likes things really spicy. Do not be alarmed if it seems too saucy when you combine the pasta and tomato mixture. The pasta will absorb the sauce as it sits. Often this even better the next day as the sauce continues to infuse the pasta in the refrigerator. I love it with coffee for breakfast! This is my version:
This is adapted from Pierre Franey’s recipe in Cooking with the 60-Minute Gourmet. As usual, I up the red pepper flakes, and make mandatory the optional jalepeno. As Madonna says, “if you can’t stand the heat, get off of my street”. (From her song I Love New York). To echo the festive Santa Fe feeling that the cumin, cilantro and chili inspire and to cool yourselves down, serve with frosty margaritas.
Driving through the sleepy little town of Petaluma, California, known for its eggs and dairy, you might see no reason to pull into an undistinguished strip mall. Way in the back left corner of the parking lot, near Leo’s Vacuum Cleaners and a deserted nail salon, sits a diamond in the rough called Dempsy’s Brewery. First surprise—the charming atmosphere. If it’s warm, sit outside overlooking the Petaluma River. In inclement weather, my first choice is the comfortable worn wooden booth directly across from the kitchen window, permitting a preview of outgoing dishes punctuated with lively shouts of “mas papas fritas, por favor!” and “con tomate!” Second, the beer rocks, with a selection of ales including their classic Red Rooster, Irish Ale and Ugly Dog Stout plus a variety of intriguing seasonal offerings. Stop by the bar and refill your jug for later that evening. We did. What more can you expect from a brewery—perhaps a pile of Buffalo wings or potato skins? That’s where the tertiary layer of this unassuming treasure comes in; the food transcends brew pub fare and rises to the level of some of the best restaurants in the San Francisco Bay Area. Seasonal produce from the owner’s own farm star in imaginative combinations from all ethnicities. The menu changes daily, and might include a Mexican posole, a Greek hummus plate, or a mixed plate of little gems like fresh caperberries, home made flat bread and beet salad. Determined to recreate a orange/chipolte pork sandwich served with cole slaw on soft potato bread I interrogated various waiters and cooking staff, extracting one or two ingredients from each. We improvised the rest, and although it’s not an exact recreation, came up with this equally flavorful rendition.
INGREDIENTS
SPICE BLEND FOR PORK
FOR SAUCE
DIRECTIONS
When we first developed our pork rub, I like it so much, I tried it on everything, including chicken. This is good, though I must admit, I like it more on pork. Still, I like chicken more with this rub, than without it. And if you live with an avid chicken eater, this does help mix it up a bit.
2 servings
Ingredients
Last month, two college friends came to Denver for a long weekend. It has been over 20 years since we graduated. Our lives are completely different, our paths rarely cross, and still we had a great time. Though Denver has a great list of restaurants to sample, one night we opted to cook dinner at home. We made this tenderloin with a side of kale salad, which nicely complemented the spicy/sweetness of the pork. My friend Nancy liked it so much, she went home and served the exact same menu at her husband’s birthday party the following week. I highly recommend that next time you have friends over—make this dish. It’s easy to prepare, so you don’t have to make a fuss, and it goes well with both red and white wine which makes catching up all the more fun.
2-3 servings
Ingredients
The chaos from our most recent renovation project finally ruffled John’s feathers. Everything we own—from wine and bread crumbs to bike pumps and ski helmets—was strewn throughout the living/dining room in our new loft. Clutter from our once organized pantry occupied every surface in the kitchen. Paint cans, rollers and brushes were piled in the sink to dry. We had just finished priming the shelves in the soon to be “coolest pantry in Denver.”
We were both tired, cranky and starving. The early evening sun was just low enough in the sky to make our new sun umbrella totally useless. The air was hot and still and the sun was bright. Still, we opted to eat on the deck to escape the chaos inside.
I had taken two steaks out of the freezer that morning. While John fired up the grill, I surveyed the sparse contents of our refrigerator and found 1/2 an onion and some frozen peas. I chopped up the onion and threw it in a pan with 2 Tablespoons of butter. When the onions became translucent, I added 1 teaspoon of our Tarra·Cardamom Rub, 2 teaspoons of Black Currant Vinegar and about 1 cup of red wine. I brought the whole thing to a boil then reduced it down. Mushrooms might be a good addition, but I didn’t have any.
Though I take credit for this amazing sauce, it could not have been created without the genius input from Reese Hay, chef du cuisine at the 8100 Mountainside Grill in the Park Hyatt in Beaver Creek and creator of our Tarra·Cardamom rub.
While the sauce reduced, I picked through a jumbled pile in the living room and discovered a treasure—a bottle of Cristom (a wine with a history, a memory of one of our first dates). It’s an awesome pinot noir with “intense berry flavors, firm acidity, and light almost feminine tannins—near perfection in a glass.” [ The words of Conde Cox of the Portland Monthly Magazine, not mine. To me it just tastes really good.]
The meal was the perfect end and reward to a tumultuous and labor-intensive day. The steaks grilled to perfection, drizzled with my new favorite red wine reduction sauce, and a great bottle of wine. The sun finally dropped behind Union Station, the sky lit up in reds and oranges, and a gentle breeze softened the heat of the day.
Who cares if the peas were frozen?
One of the things I love about cooking is that sometimes you have to improvise … and sometimes it results in a great new recipe. Last week, I made this chicken soup while visiting my mother. During the summer, she lives on Wolf Lake, in the Catskill mountains. Her spice cabinet is scantily stocked. And, though there are plenty of farm stands with fresh produce along the rural roads that weave throughout the Catskills, in traditional grocery stores supplies are somewhat limited. I finally gave up my search for saffron after three unsuccessful attempts. (Can you believe I actually tried to buy saffron in a grocery store?)
John and I had spent the day at Storm King Mountain, which I highly recommend if you are anywhere near upstate New York. The outdoor museum sits on 500 acres of rolling hills in the Hudson Highlands. On display are American and European modern sculptures by David Smith, Alex Calder, Henry Moore, and many others. The sculptures are absolutely fabulous. The leaves were just starting to turn to soft yellows and vibrant reds, so the backdrop was equally spectacular.
We returned from our outing late, so I made the soup while we started cocktails (at the lake, cocktails are a daily ritual!). Fortunately, my mother had already done most of the work (ie made the stock, and picked the chicken meat off the bones). When the soup was ready, I sat down to rave reviews all around.
My mother went into the kitchen to ladel up refills. All alone in the kitchen, she started to laugh. “What’s so funny?” I asked from the table. “You forgot to add the chicken.” she replied from the kitchen. So, we had vegetable soup for a 1st course, and chicken soup as a second course. Both were outstanding.
Ingredients
Directions
An easy, elegant and delicious special occasion entree, adapted from a Paula Deen recipe. Timing is the important factor here. The roast stays in the oven the majority of the day, nicely infusing your house with an exquisitely fragrant aroma. This particular rub works wonderfully with a beef filet roast as well, but since standing rib roast was on sale at Whole Foods at half the price of fillet, economy prevailed. The wine reduction sauce is optional as the roast stands, no pun intended, on its own, but it’s so easy and quick, why not?
Note: If you are partial to beef fillet roast, also known as beef tenderloin, apparently Costco carries the most reasonably priced, high quality product, according to America’s Test Kitchen and Alton Brown on Food Network.
Ingredients:
This recipe is from The Soup Bible, by Debra Mayhew, which is one of the best soup cookbooks I’ve found. There are three recipes in this cookbook which are outstanding. The other two are Chicken Soup with Vermicelli and Seafood and Sausage Gumbo.
This soup is a staple in our house. It gets us through the winter, which is my favorite season in Colorado. I usually make a double batch and freeze it. The spice of the turmeric and cayenne helps clear your sinus after a hard day skiing. It goes equally well with white and red wine. (more…)
Refried beans, sometimes known as frijoles, get a bad rap nutritionally because they’re often made with lard, then fried in oil. Neither is necessary. This healthy version (note that I even snuck a carrot in and no one noticed) is just as delicious and having a pot of them around is an excellent way to stretch your family food budget in this time of financial uncertainty. Pull out the old crock pot for stress-free, one-pot easy preparation. Turn it on low before you leave for work and come home to the robust, earthy aroma of Old Mexico. What can you do with a pot of frijoles?
We custom blend our Tarra·Cardamom Rub for the chef de cuisine of the 8100 Mountainside Bar and Grill in the Park Hyatt in Beaver Creek, CO. He rubs the blend on elk and cooks it over a wood fired grill. It is absolutely fabulous. When I can beg some elk off a hunting friend, I do. Otherwise I use this rub to make the best hamburgers around. Tarragon and cardamom combine to bring out the earthy flavors of the meat. Serve with a dark beer, or a bold red wine such as a hearty zinfandel.
3-4 Servings
Ingredients
Directions
We custom blend our Ginger·Mustard Rub for the chef de cuisine of the 8100 Mountainside Bar and Grill in the Park Hyatt in Beaver Creek, CO. He rubs the blend on chicken and cooks it over a wood fired grill and serves it with a lemon thyme sauce. It is absolutely fabulous.
I am usually not a big fan of turkey burgers. I find them bland and dry. I do however like them when prepared as below. The egg and panko breadcrubs keep the meat moist, and the Ginger·Mustard Rub seasons the turkey perfectly. Serve with white wine and a nice summer salad.
3-4 Servings
Ingredients
Directions
“If you ever see that red steelhead trout at the market, buy it, ” said my friend Holly. “It’s fabulous.” One weekend it appeared at the market. On Monday we compared notes. I broiled it with lemon, soy sauce, rice vinegar and fresh grated ginger. She poached it in Memmi sauce, a Japanese noodle soup base. Both versions reportedly delicious. Next time the steelhead made an appearance, I combined the two recipes. The maple syrup glaze at the end – her idea, and a stroke of inspiration that elevates this creation to the Steelhead Hall of Fame.
Endive Been Thinking . . . besides spooning them directly out of the crock pot into my mouth, what else can I do with this this nutritious, delicious and oh so economical pot of refried (not) beans, otherwise known as “The Economy Sucks but my Creamy Pinto Beans Rock” Frijoles. All of the below configurations have received rave reviews in my family; in other words, they eat it without complaint.
I am not very good at cooking fish. I either over-cook it until it is dry and flakey, or I under- cook it so it’s raw and mushy. I now have a new secret technique, thanks to grill masters Pascal and Reese from the 8100 Mountainside Grill. The “Papillote” keeps the fish moist and flavorful. Not only is it easy, it creates a beautiful presentation.
Ingredients
Directions
Healthy, fast, economical, tasty and adaptable to individual preferences – this satisfies every criterion for a weekday family dinner. Set out the turkey mixture, salad, chips, guacamole, corn muffins, sour cream, and bottles of hot sauce and let everyone craft their own combinations. By using mild salsa for the mixture and providing hot sauces for the more adventurous, everyone’s taste buds can be accommodated. Credit to my sister Karen in Rumson, New Jersey for the original idea. She makes it for guests so they can help themselves while she chases after her kids.